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DIET
Hay
The majority of a rabbit's diet should be hay. Free feed of grass
hay, such as timothy, prairie, brome, Bermuda, meadow, oat
(hay), is very important to a rabbit's health. Hays contain necessary
nutrients and roughage to maintain good health. Often, grass hay is
sold as mixed grass and contains several types of hays with varied nutrient
values. Timothy hay, an excellent overall hay, should be made available
at all times.
(see hay as litter box material).
Alfalfa
May be given occasionally as a treat for adult rabbits, but Alfalfa
hay is very high in calories, protein, and calcium and can lead to obesity
and/or kidney problems. Alfalfa is a very important element in the diet
of young/growing rabbits.
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Vegetables-3+
Leafy Greens Daily
In addition
to pellets and lots of hay offer at least three different leafy greens
daily.
Below are listed some examples of food items for your rabbit. Most
leafy greens & herbs are safe for your rabbit. New choices
should be introduced one at a time, and if you find any veggie or treat
results in a softer stool the same day it is fed, it should be eliminated
from the diet.
CAUTION:The readily available packages of vegetables or premixed
greens for
salad are usually not sufficient for the bunny’s needs, as they
tend to be lower in nutrients.
AVOID: Iceberg lettuce, raw beans, potato
peals, salty snacks, nuts, chocolate,
breakfast cereals, rhubarb, legumes (peas & beans), corn,
onions,
breads or any spoiled food.
Soak
& rinse to remove
pesticides & serve wet
| carrot
tops |
radish
tops |
escarole |
| carrot
(limit ) |
alfalfa
sprouts |
green/red
leaf lettuce |
| beet
tops |
kale |
romaine |
| broccoli
(crowns & leaves) |
bok
choy |
raddichio |
| parsley |
clover |
raspberry
leaves |
| celery
(finely sliced) |
chicory |
basil
|
| watercress |
collard
greens |
cucumber |
| mint |
dandelion
greens |
green
pepper |
| cilantro |
Edible
flowers |
tomato
(limit ) |
| frisee |
endive |
zucchini |
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Treats =
no more than one tablespoon per day
Papaya,
Pineapple, Apple (no seeds as they are toxic!), banana, peach, pear, grapes,
melon, and strawberries are some of the additional food items that are
acceptable for a rabbit to eat. Treats should be limited to a total of
no more than one tablespoon per day.
Dried fruits may be used as an alternative to the fresh, but use half
the amount.
One thing to avoid is sugar, as it increases the bad bacteria in their
intestines and can cause disease, resulting in diarrhea and loss of appetite.
Offer No salty snacks, nuts, chocolate, breakfast cereals,
rhubarb, legumes (peas & beans), corn, or bread.
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Water
Fresh
water should be available at all times! Change bowls and/or bottles at
least once a day even if they are not totally empty! Heavy ceramic food
and water bowls are recommended because they cannot be overturned. Wash
bowls and bottles frequently to remove any buildup of scum
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Pellets
Use
commercially produced pellets purchased from a feed or pet store to insure
that the quality of the food is consistent. Never purchase over an eight
week supply of food at a time or it may spoil and cause the rabbit to
stop eating. An adult rabbit will consume about five to ten lbs. of food
in this time period, depending on the rabbit’s size. Also, once a
particular brand of food has been chosen, stick with it. Sudden
switching of food can be detrimental to your rabbit's health. If a change
in pellets is necessary, gradually change from one type to another by
mixing them together until the old food is finished.
Protein:
Short haired rabbits should eat pellets containing no more than 16% protein,
while Angoras should get 18 to 20%.
Fiber:
Pellets should contain at least 18% fiber.
There
is a bit of controversy about the amount of pellets to feed
a rabbit. Our experience is that pellets should be rationed, giving
1/4 cup per day (for a 5-7 lb. bun).
Vegetables and plenty of hay should be given in addition to pellets.
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| HOUSING
You
will get the most enjoyment from your rabbit - and visa-versa - if he/she
lives in your home with you. People sometimes confine rabbits to a life
in an outdoor hutch because they do not realize what wonderful house pets
they can be. With a little training, your rabbit can be a delightful INDOOR
companion.
Cages in general
Rabbits were
not designed to live on wire floors! Living on wire floors can cause a
condition known as sore hock to develop on their feet. Cages with wire
floors were designed for the convenience of breeders who were looking
for an easy way to clean up after the most rabbits in the least amount
of time. Cages with wire floors must have a piece of untreated plywood,
rice or maize straw mat, plexiglas, or carpet that the rabbit can sit
and lay on. If you try carpet and the rabbit chews it, immediately replace
it with something else.
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TRAINING
An
untrained rabbit can, and probably should, be kept in a cage or confined
to a room while you're not home to supervise, but they must be let out
for at least several hours each day, both to exercise, and to have social
interaction with you and/or your other pets. Also, the more they are let
out, the faster they will learn proper behavior through discipline. Younger
rabbits tend to get into more mischief and must be watched and disciplined
more closely. As time goes on and their behavior improves, more freedom
may be given. If you don't want to confine your rabbit to a cage, a clean,
rabbit-proofed room may be used. Rooms that are generally easy to rabbit-proof
are the bathroom, laundry room, kitchen, and bedroom. Eventually,
when you feel you can trust your rabbit, free run of the house can be
given. But first, you must inspect every room extremely carefully for
any exposed wires and other dangerous objects (like plants) that could
be harmful to your rabbit. You may have to deny access to one or more
rooms if bunny proofing is difficult or impossible (such as a computer
room). But the more space your rabbit has, the more delightful you will
find him/her as a pet and companion. See rabbit proofing section for information
on how to rabbit proof your house
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LITTER
BOX TRAINING
Grass
hay is highly recommended as the most foolproof method for the litterbox
material. It is very inexpensive (if purchased in bulk at feed and feed
& grain type stores), extremely easy to use, and provides the most
natural environment for the rabbit. Simply put a layer of newspaper in
the bottom of a large kitty litter box and a nice, thick, soft bed of
hay on top of that. The rabbits will sit in the box and eat the hay in
the front and go the bathroom in the back (it is very natural for them
to graze and go at the same time and they usually take to it immediately).
If this method is used, do not put hay in any other place! This will only
confuse your rabbit as to where he/she is supposed to go.
If
hay cannot be used, organic, dust-free, non-clumping, paper-based kitty
litters such as Care Fresh, Yesterday's News, Cat Works, etc. may be used
instead.
Do not use clay
litter
Do not use cedar
or pine for litter
or bedding
Do not
use corn cob litter
Cedar and Pine
Shavings-Health Risk
Contrary
to popular belief, cedar & pine are very bad for rabbits and other
animals. "Aromatic hydrocarbons from cedar and pine bedding materials
can induce biosynthesis and hepatic microsomal enzymes" which are known
to cause liver disease (quoted from the U.S. Dept. of Health and Human
Services guide for the care of laboratory animals). Use grass hay (on
top of newspaper) or organic kitty litter for your rabbit's litter box
and timothy hay for other small animals' cages.
Do not use corn cob litter - if rabbits eat it, it can
get lodged in their stomach and create a serious blockage.
Whichever
material you choose, make sure to change the litterbox regularly to keep
it clean. The litter box can be rinsed out with white vinegar, which eliminates
mineral buildup on the surface of the box. (During training, you may want
a slightly "dirty" litter box to help teach the rabbit where he/she is
supposed to go. If you are constantly cleaning it, they'll think that
it's supposed to stay clean and won't use it. Also, their scent in the
box is another attraction for them to continue to use it).
Confine
the rabbit to a small area (without carpeting is preferred) with the litter
box. Do not give the rabbit access to any other room until he/she is always
urinating in the litterbox. Stay in the "training room" for as long as
possible to observe its behavior. If the rabbit has an accident outside
of the box, wipe it up immediately with a paper towel, partially bury
the towel under the hay, and then place the rabbit in the litter box.
This will teach the rabbit that the urine belongs IN THE BOX! If the rabbit
deposits any droppings on the floor, immediately pick both the rabbit
and the droppings up and put them into the litterbox. Pet your bunny while
he/she is sitting in the box and say "good bunny". When you have to leave,
put the rabbit back into its cage or enclosure with the litterbox. When
the rabbit is using the litterbox all of the time, you can then let him/her
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RABBIT PROOFING YOUR HOUSE
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Wires
Rabbits love to chew electrical wires, telephone wires, TV antenna wires,
etc. A plastic tubing available at most hardware stores can cover these
wires. This tubing goes by several different names including polycon tubing,
plumber's tubing, and vacuum tubing and comes in various sizes, thickness,
and types of plastic (some are hard while others are soft and easily bendable).
Use a utility knife to cut the tubing lengthwise and insert the wires
inside. If the bunny chews through the tubing, another type may have to
be used. Another good product is Cord-mate. Some wires can be taped up
on the wall and the tubing won't be necessary, but check for hidden places
that the rabbit may be able to get to that you can't see such as under
a bed or behind furniture.
CornersSome
rabbits will chew on the corners of wood, walls, or windows. This is one
reason to be patient and observe them before they can be allowed the run
of the house. If they find a favorite spot to chew, you can purchase hard
plastic corner protectors from hardware stores to affix over the area.
FurnitureFor
items like chair legs, kitchen cabinets, baseboards, etc., a product called
Bitter Apple (available at pet stores) can be applied to the area being
chewed. This product has an extremely awful flavor and should deter any
further chewing. Unfortunately, for some reason, a few rabbits may like
the taste. In this case, try Tabasco or another hot sauce. Blocks, baskets,
boxes, and other toys (see Toys section) should also be kept around the
house to give the rabbits something to chew rather than your furniture.
Just make sure that the material is natural and has not been painted,
stained, varnished, or treated with any chemicals (no plywood, pressboard,
particleboard, pressure treated wood, etc.).
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TOYS
A
bored rabbit is a destructive rabbit! Digging or chewing the carpet and
chewing forbidden objects are just two examples. Whether inside the cage
or out, your rabbit needs plenty of toys to keep him/her from getting
bored. Following are a few examples of suitable toys:
* Toilet paper & paper towel rolls * Untreated straw baskets of
any size * Natural wood blocks (no pressure treated wood, plywood, particle
board, press board, etc.) * Canning jar rings * Rolled oats box with ends
cut off * Soft drink can with a few pebbles inside for noise * Rubber
balls (unless they chew on them) * Wire ball with bell inside (available
at most pet stores in the cat section) * Baby toys such as rattles and
giant key rings * Hanging bird toys with bells * Rice or maize mats (available
at Pier 1 Imports) * Cardboard boxes with openings or "doors" cut in the
sides * Things to jump up on (some like high places where they can look
around) * Large "bouncy" balls
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RABBIT
BEHAVIOR
Bunny
hop/dance: A sign of pure joy and happiness. This "dancing" includes
leaping and/or spinning in the air, racing around, etc.
Chinning:
Rabbits rub their chins (which contain scent glands) on items to get their
scent on them. This indicates that the items belong to them and also defines
their territory.
Thumping
or Stomping: The bunny is frightened, mad, or sensing danger (real
or imagined). Reassure him that everything is ok.
Teeth
grinding: Soft grinding indicates contentment and is usually heard
when petting the rabbit. Loud grinding can indicate pain and is usually
heard during an illness.
Circling
your feet: Usually indicates sexual behavior (even when neutered)
but basically means "I love you".
Playing:
Rabbits like to push or toss objects around. They may also race madly
around the house, jump on and off the couch, and act like a child that's
had too much sugar. See Toys
Grunts:
Usually angry - watch out or you could be bitten!
Spraying:
Unneutered males will mark female rabbits and their territory in this
manner. Unspayed females can also spray.
Territorial
droppings: Droppings that are not in a pile, but scattered, are
signs that this territory belongs to the rabbit. This will sometimes occur
upon entering a new environment or if another rabbit is brought into the
house, and may be temporary or ongoing. Droppings in piles indicates that
the rabbit needs more litter box training.
Don't
touch my stuff!: Some rabbits do not like when you rearrange their
cage as you clean and may grunt, charge or even nip you when you try.
They are creatures of habit and once they get things just right, they
like them to remain that way.
Shrill
scream: Hurt or dying.
False
pregnancy: Even though a rabbit may not be pregnant, unspayed
females may sometimes build a nest & pull hair from their chest and
stomach to line the nest. They may even stop eating as usually occurs
the day before they give birth.
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GROOMING
Shedding
Because
of shedding, rabbits need to be brushed at least weekly. In addition to
removing loose hair, this weekly brushing session helps prepare them for
the multiple daily brushings that they must undergo during their heavy
sheddings. Rabbits will shed in different ways: some rabbits will take
a couple of weeks or more to lose their old coat, while others will lose
theirs all in one day. These rabbits cannot be neglected once they start
shedding. A very large percentage of the hair can often be removed by
just pulling it out with your hands.Bald
spots on rabbits are quite common when they are shedding. If you notice
bald spots during your rabbit's shedding season, do not be alarmed; the
hair will begin to grow back within a week or two.
NailsRabbits
nails can grow to be very long and sharp and can be uncomfortable for
both you and the rabbit. If the rabbit has light colored nails, the quick
(the portion of the nail containing the blood) is highly visible making
them very easy to trim - just clip the nail right before the quick. Dark
colored nails make it much more difficult to see the quick, and therefore,
harder to trim the nails. A scissors or guillotine type nail clipper available
from any pet or pet supply store is suitable. People
are often afraid to clip the nails for the fear that they will cut the
quick and draw blood. If bleeding occurs, it can be stopped by one of
the following methods: apply flour to the area by dabbing it on with your
fingers and applying pressure (the flour will help clot the blood); apply
pressure to the nail with a cotton ball; or use a product called Qwik
Stop, which is available at most pet shops. Your veterinarian will also
clip nails for you. They should be checked every 4 to 6 weeks. Never declaw
a rabbit! It is unsafe, inhumane, and is not recommended for rabbits (or
any other animal for that matter).
Angora and other long-hair rabbits
These
types of rabbits are truly wonderful to look at but require much more
attention than shorthaired rabbits. They must be groomed daily to prevent
matting of the fur and, of course, hairballs.Grooming
also provides an excellent opportunity to give your rabbit a quick overall
check- up (see health check section). This includes checking teeth for
misalignment (malocclusion), eyes and nose for any discharge, condition
of fur and skin, etc.
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GENERAL
HEALTH TIPS
Red
urine
Rabbits'
urine varies in color from clear to yellow to brown to bright red. This
is usually not a cause for alarm unless there are additional signs, such
as sitting and straining to urinate, loss of appetite or a temperature.
When you see red urine, don't panic; just keep your eyes open for other
signs that may indicate a problem.
The
red color will usually be gone in a day or two but can last for a much
longer time. Actual blood in the urine would look like urine with red
specks. If you're in doubt, don't risk your bunny's health --
have your vet test for blood in the urine.
Hairballs
Rabbits
shed their hair every three months, alternating heavy and light. Because
rabbits are very clean and are constantly grooming themselves and/or their
companions, they ingest a great deal of hair. Over time, this hair may
build up and block the stomach exit causing the rabbit to starve to death
while its stomach appears fat. Unlike cats, rabbits cannot throw up a
hairball when it threatens their health; this is the largest cause of
problems and deaths in rabbits! The first sign of a hairball or blockage
of any kind (such as carpet) is a loss of appetite. Their droppings will
also get smaller and will often be strung together or will contain hairs
or pieces of carpet fiber. The rabbit's stomach will then become bloated
as it loses weight on its way to starving to death.
To
prevent blockages, regular brushing and combing is a must. Also, free
feed of the loose grass HAY EVERY DAY do not give the small compressed
hay blocks as the fiber is too small and therefore ineffective);
plenty of exercise (in order to help the hair that they do ingest to pass
through their system); and a daily serving of either fresh papaya, 1 or
2 papaya enzyme tablets (no added sugar), pineapple (fresh - not canned
or frozen). These all contain papain/bromelain which help break down the
hair and may be helpful in preventing hairballs. Petromalt, Femalt, or
Laxatone (all available in most pet stores) may also be used as hairball
preventative, especially during heavy molting, but should be used carefully
as they may cause diarrhea. Also include daily servings of green veggies
for roughage.Treating
the first signs of a blockage is controversial, but the first thing to
do is to get them to eat as much roughage (hay, dried aged tree branches/twigs,
etc.) as they will. Make sure to be offering the rabbit plenty of greens
as well. These steps are critical in order to have the bunny maintain
digestive flora. As you treat the condition, stay in constant contact
with your rabbit vet, as they may need to administer subcutaneous fluids
(often containing electrolytes) so that the rabbit does not become dehydrated.
Spay/Neuter
Why spay/neuter? Unspayed female rabbits are at very high risk to
get uterine or ovarian cancer between two and five years of age, and a
high rate of males will get testicular cancer. Spaying or neutering your
rabbit will give him/her the potential life span of eight to twelve (or
more) years of age. Also, upon reaching sexual maturity, rabbits will
often display such undesirable behavior as spraying, chewing, nipping,
fighting with other rabbits, etc. In most cases, neutering totally eliminates
this behavior. When the time comes to have your rabbit neutered, it is
extremely important to make sure that your vet is knowledgeable and experienced
with the procedure and with rabbits in general. A rabbit neuter or spay
can be dangerous or even life threatening if improper technique or general
anesthesia is used. If the rabbit is older, tests may need to be done
to assess liver and kidney function prior to surgery.
Teeth
Rabbits'
teeth are constantly growing. This is why they are always chewing - to
help keep their teeth the proper size. Some rabbits, however, have misaligned
or "maloccluded" teeth which means that their teeth do not wear down properly
and continue to grow. A rabbit with this condition needs to have his/her
teeth clipped periodically so that they can eat. Your vet can do this
for you or can show you how to do it yourself. The misalignment of the
front teeth can be easily seen, but the back teeth may need to be checked
by your vet. One indication that the back teeth may be a problem, is a
wet chin that is caused by drooling. Teeth should be checked at each grooming
session.
Cedar
and Pine Shavings Contrary
to popular belief, these are very bad for rabbits and other animals. "Aromatic
hydrocarbons from cedar and pine bedding materials can induce biosynthesis
and hepatic microsomal enzymes" which are known to cause liver disease
(quoted from the U.S. Dept. of Health and Human Services guide for the
care of laboratory animals).
Use grass hay (on top of newspaper) or organic kitty litter for your rabbit's
litter box and timothy hay for other small animals' cages.
Do not use corn cob litter - if rabbits eat it, it can get
lodged in their stomach and create a serious blockage.
Sneezing
Sneezing
may or may not be a sign of trouble. If sneezing is accompanied by a runny
nose and/or runny eyes, a vet should be seen immediately, especially if
there is also a loss of appetite. If the rabbit is Sneezing, but has no
other symptoms and is eating well, it may be allergies or even nothing
at all, but keep a close eye out for the development of any other symptoms
and keep in touch with your rabbit vet.
Parasites Rabbits
can get the common dog or cat flea, but be very careful
about the products you use to treat the home and yard. If the yard is
treated, do not allow your rabbit on it for at least a week, and then
water it thoroughly to wash off any residual chemicals. For the affected
rabbit, see a vet who is knowledgeable about rabbits. S/he can prescribe
a product that is safe to use. Fur
mites that can live on the skin dander of rabbits will cause your
rabbit to scratch, and if left untreated, will eventually cause thick
crusts to develop on the rabbit's body. Your vet can administer a drug
called ivermectin to eliminate this problem.
Earmites
cause rabbits to shake their heads frequently and scratch their ears.
If left untreated, a middle ear infection could develop which may cause
a problem with their balance. Ivermectin is also recommended for earmites.
Coccidia,
an
internal parasite called can infect the small intestines. Symptoms can
be a loss of appetite to chronic diarrhea and occasionally death. Testing
for coccidia is as easy as taking a fecal sample to your vet during the
rabbit's annual check-up.If
your rabbit is free of any of these parasites, it is unlikely that they
will get them as long as they are kept inside, their home is clean, and
they are not exposed to other animals who may carry these parasites.
Amoxicillin Danger Never
let a vet give your rabbit amoxicillin (an antibiotic that is pink in
color and smells like bubble gum). Amoxicillin and other forms of penicillin
kill the "good" bacteria in the rabbit's intestines and can cause other
organs to malfunction. There are other antibiotics that can safely be
given to rabbits such as Albon, Bactrim, and Baytril. Occasionally, a
rabbit cannot tolerate an antibiotic (signs are a loss of appetite, diarrhea,
and others) and another may have to be tried instead. If your vet says
that just this once amoxicillin
will
be okay or that they have no other antibiotic to dispense --find another
vet!
Surgeries
Food
and water should not be removed from a rabbit the evening before surgery!
Ignore this direction if given by the front office staff and discuss with
your vet if the instructions come from him/her. Not only do you want to
do the right thing for your rabbit; you also need to educate for future
rabbits this vet may see! Rabbits cannot throw up and possible vomiting
is the reason that food is removed from cats and dogs. It is harmful to
rabbits and causes a longer recovery time if food and/or water is denied
them. The rabbit should also be tempted to eat as soon as it awakes from
surgery to assist with the recovery process. After surgery, offer things
you would normally consider "treats" in order to help them back on to
food!
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HEALTH
CHECKUPS
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A simple checkup, as outlined below, should be given to your rabbit every
6 to 8 weeks. This does not take the place of a full physical exam, which
should also be given by your vet once a year (more if the rabbit has
a condition that requires monitoring).
Regular checkups are necessary for the health and longevity of your
rabbit.
Nails
Check and trim nails as needed (see Nails under Grooming section). If you
find a broken nail, make sure it has healed properly since these are prone
to infection. It is common for a rabbit to break a nail and is usually nothing
to worry about unless it becomes infected.
Feet Check the soles of each rear foot for worn hair and/or sores.
This is usually the result of living on a wire floor but can also be due
to an overweight rabbit sitting on hard surfaces. It is very easy for pasteurella
or other infections to start in these sores, so see a vet right away if
they are found!
Teeth Make sure that they are properly aligned and not maloccluded.
The top teeth should be directly in line with the bottom teeth with a very
slight over-bite. If the top teeth are extremely long and actually hang
over the bottom, it is likely that your rabbit is maloccluded and will need
his/her teeth clipped (see Teeth under Health section above).
Eyes Rabbits can sometimes have a little bit of crust-like substance
in the corners of their eyes; this is nothing to worry about and can be
wiped clean with a cotton ball or tissue. If the eyes have a pussey discharge,
the rabbit will need to be taken to a vet immediately. Other than that,
their eyes should be clear and bright with no sign of discharge from their
tear ducts. Note: The smaller dwarf breeds seem to have eyes that protrude
more than their larger cousins do. You will often find a strange substance
that floats on the surface of their eyeballs. Because of the shape of their
eyes, they are frequently unable to wash this material (hair and moisture)
and you will need to remove it for them.
Never use human eye drops such as Visine!
If necessary, you can purchase a hypoallergenic eyewash or Artificial Tears
from the drug store, and use ONE drop of that in each eye to wash
the material to the corner. Often, a tissue or cotton swab can be used to
gently lift the material off of the eye without using an eyewash (this should
be done daily).
Ears Check inside each ear for wax or dirt build-up. If ears do not
appear clean, see a vet.
Nose Look for moisture or discharge around the nasal cavities or
for a "snotty" substance inside. Even if you don't hear sneezing, if you
see a slightly moist nose, check the insides of each front leg for dirty
spots. Rabbits will wipe their nose with the insides of their front paws
and can easily mask the early signs of pasteurella (snuffles) problems.Chin
Check the underside of their chin for a waxy type of buildup from their
scent gland. If you find this condition, you can try to wash it off with
warm water, but it will often be mixed in with their hair and will need
to be cut off with cuticle scissors. Rabbits that often drink from bowls
can sometimes get dermatitis, so also look for redness and irritation.
Genital scent glands In addition to the scent glands under their
chins, rabbits also have much more powerful scent glands on both sides of
their genitals. This area needs to be checked and will probably always need
cleaning. Sometimes you'll find just a few moist flakes from dried skin,
but more often you'll find a very dark brown, hard, waxy type of build-up.
Either of these can be easily removed with a cotton swab dipped in hydrogen
peroxide. If this substance is not cleaned and is allowed to remain, the
area could become infected. The rabbit may have to be turned on its back
to do this. Keep one hand pressed firmly on the stomach so that he/she cannot
suddenly flip over and injure their back. Use your fingers to find the genitals
and then to separate the area directly adjacent to the genitals. When you
find the scent glands and separate the overlapping skin, the dark substance
will become visible.
If your rabbit ever has a "skunky" smell -- it's time for a cleaning!
Lumps
and bumps This
is also a good time to inspect your rabbits’ body all over: legs, the
stomach, head, butt, between the legs, etc. Both male and female rabbits
will have nipples on their stomachs, but other than that, if you feel any
strange lumps or bumps, have a vet check them out. Just as with humans,
the earlier you find and treat a problem, the easier it is to cure.
Fleas If you find evidence of fleas or "flea dirt" (tiny,
loose, black specs) in the rabbits fur or on the skin, see a veterinarian
who is knowledgeable about rabbits. S/he can prescribe a product to help
remedy the problem.
CAUTION: baths and flea dips can kill a rabbit
Dandruff
Is it dandruff or is it fur mites? If you can only see flakes, it is almost
impossible for you to tell without a microscope. A sure sign of mites is
what will look like white scabs or a crust on the skin and it will often
start around the neck or tail area. In addition, your rabbits can become
very thin with bald spots as the mites become worse. You can also see very
thin hair and dandruff caused by scratching due to flea infestation. All
of the above are simple things to check, but sometimes it may be easier
with two people. If check-ups are done every two months, you'll begin to
know your rabbit well enough so that you can spot a problem in the early
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MISCELLANEOUS
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Discipline
Never
hit a rabbit! Not only is it cruel but they don't get the message
anyway! They can also become very angry and aggressive if provoked. When
you find your rabbit displaying undesirable behavior, try one or more
of the following: * Clap your hands together and say "NO" *Thump your
foot like a fellow rabbit *Whistle loudly * Shout loudly
Biting Rabbits
usually do not bite, but if one does, it must be stopped immediately.
If a rabbit bites, it is usually not because it hates you; there are many
reasons within a rabbit's social structure that bring about a bite. A
rabbit may also accidentally bite while tugging at your pant leg. Whatever
the reason, if you get nipped, you must immediately let out a shrill cry.
Rabbits do this when they are hurt. Since they usually do not intend to
hurt you, they will be surprised that you have cried out and will usually
stop the behavior after a few times.
Companions
Rabbits
love the company of other rabbits. If you have one bunny, think about
getting him/her a companion (males tend to be good with only females,
but females can be friends with males or other females). Local shelters
often have rabbits who have been abandoned and who will be put to sleep
if not adopted!
Rabbits
outside
It
is a joy to watch rabbits play outside, but certain precautions must be
taken.
Do
not let your rabbit onto grass that has
been sprayed with fertilizers or pesticides.
Always supervise your rabbit while outside.
It only takes a few seconds for a dog to jump a fence and attack or frighten
the rabbit (literally) to death. *Under no circumstances should a rabbit
be left outside after dark, even in the middle of cities. Predators such
as hawks, opossums, raccoons, coyotes, dogs, and occasionally even a cat
will attack a small rabbit. Even if you have an enclosure that is very
secure, a rabbit can die of fright while a predator attempts to break
in - even if the attempt is unsuccessful. Using an H-type harness (fit
snugly, but not tight) with a leash is the safest way for bunny to enjoy
the outdoors.
Dangers
to rabbits
Amoxicillin:
Antibiotic for use in humans, dogs, and cats - kills rabbits!
Cedar/Pine
Shavings: Causes liver disease.
Houseplants:
Do not let a rabbit chew on any houseplant!
Electric
wires: Protect with plastic tubing
Stray/strange
dogs: Always supervise your rabbit around any dogs.
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RECOMMENDED
PUBLICATIONS
BOOKS
The House Rabbit Handbook
by
Marinell Harriman. Available from the Massachusetts House Rabbit Society
Rabbit Health 101
by Kathy Smith
Available
from the Massachusetts House Rabbit Society
NEWSLETTERS
The
House Rabbit Journal
Send $18 to members of the HRS, national chapter for a
yearly newsletter/membership:
HRS
1524 Benton St
Alameda, CA 94501-2420
Rabbit
Tails
Send $15
to
members of the MA HRS for a yearly newsletter/membership:
MA HRS
P.O. Box 999
Melrose, MA 02176-0006
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